Varanasi doesn’t ease you in. As soon as Taher Masafr lands, the city meets him with its own rules—narrow streets, crowded lanes, and an atmosphere so intense it’s hard to describe. This first episode is all about arrival: the journey in, the first walk through the old town, and the sights that instantly make Varanasi feel unlike anywhere else in India.
Welcome to Varanasi (Kashi): The city of light
Taher describes Varanasi as “the oldest and holiest city” for Hindus, a place people travel to from across India for prayer and rituals along the Ganges. He also shares another name he hears—Kashi—often associated with the “city of light”. From the start, he frames Varanasi as a city where life, faith, and tradition sit side by side with everyday movement.
Mumbai to Varanasi: Arrival, cash, and a drop-off inside the maze
The video begins with the journey itself: Taher travels from Mumbai to Varanasi by plane, describing it as roughly a little over two hours. Once he reaches the city, the plan to get straight to the hotel quickly changes. The taxi takes him only so far—he says it literally takes the last cash in his pocket—and then stops because access is blocked inside the busy areas.
Cars can’t go where they want to go. Taher explains that the old town does not allow cars; entry is constrained, and the area is crowded and difficult to navigate. With no further taxi access, he is directed towards a cycle rickshaw (a pedal-powered tuk-tuk style ride) to continue.
Cycle rickshaw vibes: Human-powered travel through the old streets
Instead of a smooth road transfer, Taher experiences Varanasi the way the locals do—on a ride powered by a cyclist pulling passengers. He notes how quickly his arrival becomes real, immediate, and hands-on: the streets are busy, narrow, and alive with movement.
Sacred cows roaming freely (and blocking the way)
One of the most striking recurring images in the episode is the presence of cows. Taher repeatedly observes that cows walk freely—sometimes right in front of him, sometimes in the tight alleys of the old town. He states that the cows are treated as sacred, and he describes the sense that no one tries to harm them or stand in their way.
Even when they appear to block paths, the video conveys a kind of acceptance: people work around them instead of pushing them aside. Taher also mentions seeing cows tied up in certain places, suggesting they’re managed with care.
The old town: a maze of lanes, guesthouses, and temples
As Taher makes his way into the old town, he describes it as like a maze—with lanes that feel confusing, crowded, and sometimes impossible to reach unless you know the area well. In this part of Varanasi, tourists and visitors stay in guesthouses, and he points out that foreigners are present, too.
He also spots temples and small shrines throughout the streets, creating a layered cityscape where sacred spaces blend into daily life. Guesthouses, he says, can look similar—but the defining feature is the surrounding environment: old streets, dense activity, and constant sensory detail.
Ganges ghats: rituals, sacred river energy, and the city’s spiritual pulse
The episode sets expectations for what’s ahead: Varanasi’s spiritual identity revolves around the Ganges and the ghats. Taher explains that Hindus come to perform rituals on the river, and he notes the solemn reality of cremations and funeral rites as part of the city’s sacred role. (He promises more detail in future episodes.)
Unexpected diversity: a market and a Muslim area
While Varanasi is presented as a Hindu holy centre, Taher is surprised by the number of Muslims he sees around him. He describes noticing many women wearing hijabs and even some wearing niqabs. He then states he believes this area is likely a “Muslim area,” because communities tend to cluster together—something he observes in the density of people and the visible presence of a mosque.
In this episode, that impression becomes real as he stumbles into a busy local market—full of traders, fast movement, and a sense of ongoing activity, including what he describes as stalls repairing items, selling goods, and handling everyday work in the same busy space.
A first night atmosphere: chaos, music, crowds, and caution
As evening closes in, Taher portrays Varanasi as a city of constant bustle. He hears drumming and music and finds himself near what he believes could be a wedding—he says he wasn’t expecting it, but he’s drawn into the moment.
He also advises caution: he mentions friends in Mumbai warning travellers to watch out for theft in Varanasi. The episode captures both the wonder and the realism of being in a crowded spiritual hub where attention is always split between landmarks, people, and movement.
How to experience Varanasi’s old town (based on what’s shown)
- Expect restricted vehicle access: Taher’s taxi cannot enter the busiest old-town areas.
- Be ready for walking: he describes needing to cover distance on foot to reach accommodation.
- Plan for crowds and slow movement: the old lanes are described as extremely busy.
- Accept sacred cows in the flow of life: they may appear directly in your path.
- Stay alert: he notes a need for caution against theft.
Where this journey goes next
This first episode of Taher Masafr’s Varanasi story ends with a promise: the city is only getting more intense. From the old town maze to the Ganges ghats and the daily rhythm of crowded markets, there’s a sense that Varanasi’s “strange and wonderful” energy is only just beginning.
Note: The video includes opinions expressed by the content creator and the people featured; those views are presented as personal impressions from the episode.
Ready to explore Varanasi?
If you want a trip that goes beyond famous postcards—into real lanes, real crowds, and the living heartbeat of the Ganges—Varanasi may be the next city you add to your story. Keep an eye on the next episode for more of the rituals and the stories behind what you see.
